Ghana was a scheduled port for our 2015 Semester at Sea voyage, but it was cancelled soon before departure because of an expanding SARS epidemic in West Africa. Namibia was a fun replacement.
Ghana next entered our scene when Joel received his mission call to the Ghana Cape Coast mission. He loved Ghana and we loved experiencing the country vicariously through his COVID interrupted mission.
I loved finally being able to visit this amazing country.
Prior to our arrival in Tema we had over a week of classes and special lectures about Ghana. One global studies class for the whole ship community focused on the Atlantic slave trade. It was a powerful presentation about the horrors of the slave trade, made very real by the fact that we were traversing along one side of the triangle trade. I was especially touched by the reminder that many slaves never survived the voyage and that in itself may have been a blessing given what was to come.
Pilot boat for the port of Tema to the east of Accra.
For day one in Ghana I participated in a SAS field program that explored Accra. I was fascinated with all the Christian related billboards on some very long drives around the country.
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Also interesting to observe a very visible presence of China in Ghana. They are helping with infrastructure and mining.
We drove through the beautiful and spacious campus of the University of Ghana.
Library
Presidental palace
A spicy spinach, mushroom, fish soup eaten with boiled yams.
At a random ATM, I met a French instructor (from Ghana who served her mission in Sierra Leone) at the LDS Mission Training Center that was located just behind the bank. Joel trained there as used it as a gathering point prior to being evacuated from Ghana.
I enjoyed the small National Museum. Indonesia's motto is Unity in Diversity. I have noticed many similarities between Indonesia and Ghana. The cities and landscapes look very similar. Both are batik makers. Both had charismatic post colonialist leaders (Sukarno and Nkrumah) who sought to build national identity from diverse ethnicities and religions. Both riled the west when they embraced the non-aligned movement which allowed for ties with leaders and countries at odds with the West. And both may have been ousted with CIA help.
We also visited the Nkrumah memorial.
Our guide explaining how Nkrumah was ousted, died in exiled and was then re-interred in Accra and this memorial after he once again gain respect for what he did for Ghana. I liked the guide's batik shirt.
Two statues of Nkrumah that were destroyed when he was overthrown.
I texted this photo to Joel and he responded with this photo:
Next day I headed out on another SAS field program-. This one was entitled Adventures in Southern Ghana and lasted four days. First day we headed northeastward over the Volta River, past Volta Dam to a large waterfall right on the Togo Border. This region was territory of the Ewe people.
Volta River
Bought some bananas for everyone on the bus.
Lots of people sitting in yards under trees.
Sunrise from our hotel in Ho
At breakfast in the hotel I met a fellow Mormon. He a Church Education System (CES) administrator from Accra. He knew Joel's mission president. We shared stories about our efforts to help children with educational needs in Indonesia and Ghana.
Avocado orchard.
Second day we visited Global Mamas--an impressive organization that gives women job opportunities making shea butter products, batik items, recycled glass bead jewelry, and trivets from dried water lily stalks (an invasive species in Ghana is trying to eradicate)
we all got to choose a stamp and dye color to make our own cloth. So fun to do.
Wrapped in the batik we made. I may have mine made into pillow covers.
We spent the night at an airport hotel in Accra. Next morning we had a long drive from Accra to Cape Coast much of which was via the main coastal highway currently under renovation. It was a bumpy ride. No one else was interested (the students were great nappers) so I often sat up front by our guide for a better view.
One of several drive-bys of the fishing port in Elmina
Drove by the first LDS Chapel in West Africa. Jowl never served in this ward or stake, but he did come here from missionary conferences.
A sobering visit to Cape Coast castle--where enslaved people were held until they were loaded on ships for the trans-Atlantic voyage.
Burial site of the son of and enslaver and a slave who was educated in England and then came back to the fort to establish a school for all the children of enslaver and slave.
Upper portion of the fortification where the enslavers lived.
Memorials at the stoned up gate that led to the ships.
Where those who resisted well held until they soon died inthe heat without any food or water.
Tourists (most likely African-Americans) standing outside of the last door to the ships.
Embankment protecting our resort from storm surges.
Death notices hang above the market.
Colanders used for decorations.
For out last morning we visited Kakum National Park with its canadian built seven canopy walk roape bridges.
I'm not a fan of heights, but the high netting and sturdy structure of the bridges helped alliviate my fears.
Two hours was not enough. I would have enjoyed additional time to do one of the forest floor walks.
As we drove through the Cape Coast area, Joel had alerted me to places I would pass where he had served. He mentioned that near the entrance to the national park in the little town of Jukwa there was a tourist class restaurant (Rain Forest) where he would go while serving in Jukwa when he was homesick. There he could get pizza or fries and watch soccer on a big screen. When we passed the resort on the way to the park, I mentioned this to our guide and he replied that we would be eating lunch at the same restaurant after the park. After a nice buffet (no pizza) I arranged with the guide and driver to leave a little early and walk towards the center of town where I would meet the bus when he came by. It was a lovely 15 minute/half mile walk along Jukwa's main road. Nice to not be experiencing the streets of Ghana just from a bus.
My mantra, after four days in Ghana: every side street leads to a church.
Town Square. Joel noted form Google maps that this was a new statue installed since he was there four years ago.
Driving back towards Elmina I noticed this sign pointing down a side street.
And an actual LDS Church on a main road as we entered the port city of Takoradi.
I took malaria pills, but didn't see or feel any mosquitos in Ghana.
Takoradi port with our ship in the distance.
Oour wonderful guide Mohammad. An Ewe from Eastern Ghana.
Next night we sailed southward across the equator at almost 0 degrees longitude (the prime meridian)
At 0 degrees latitude and 0 degrees longitude.
9:45 at night. The ship's captain had a blue light shining to look like the equator line.
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